National Archives

‘Suffragette City’, an exhibition and immersive experience taking place at the London
Pavilion in Piccadilly.

The National Archives is collaborating with the National Trust to recreate the life of a
Suffragette activist. Audience members will learn about Suffragette Lillian Ball, who was
arrested for smashing a window in 1912, and with the help of actors, take part in
activities to bring to life the experiences of those fighting for suffrage.

Designers have recreated a number of places that are key to the story of the Suffrage
movement, including the Women’s Social and Political Union (WSPU) Headquarters, a tea
room and a police cell.

High-quality facsimile materials from The National Archives relating to the Suffragette
movement are on display and a guidebook has been created based upon these and other
papers, photographs, pamphlets and letters.

Vicky Iglikowski, Diverse Histories Specialist here at The National Archives, said: ‘It
is exciting to be working on this project that is so directly inspired by The National
Archives records. Through the documents we can learn about the difficult choices women
and men faced in their campaigns to gain the vote and the huge impact militant campaigns
had on government and society.’

Suffragette City will run from 8 to 25 March. The project is part of a wider programme
that commemorates 100 years of the 1918 Representation of the People Act, which extended
the vote to some women and to men over the age of 21.

Time’s Up

Brief: Students present proposal for woman whose achievements merit a public memorial.

“Time’s Up” is a movement against sexual harassment, launched in Hollywood on January 1st this year by more than 300 women working in the cinema, theatre and telephone in response to the Weinstein scandal and the Hash Tag Me Too. By February it has raised $20 million for its legal defence fund and gathered over 200 volunteer lawyers.

“Fake tattoo proof reading position available. Experience with apostrophes a must”

After attending an Oscars party with a fake “Time’s Up” tattoo, which missed out the apostrophe, actress Emma Watson laughs off the critics. (Hermoine Grainger would have been mortified!)

 

contributed by Stephen Rigg

 

 

Dame Ellen MacArthur

Dame Ellen Patricia MacArthur, DBE (born 8 July 1976) is a retired English sailor, from Whatstandwell near Matlock in Derbyshire, now based in Cowes, Isle of Wight.

MacArthur is a successful solo long-distance yachtswoman. On 7 February 2005 she broke the world record for the fastest solo circumnavigation of the globe, a feat which gained her international renown. Francis Joyon, the Frenchman who had held the record before MacArthur, was able to recover the record again in early 2008.

On 8 February 2005, following her return to England, it was announced that she was to be made a Dame Commander of the Order of the British Empire (DBE) in recognition of her achievement. It is believed that she is the youngest ever recipient of this honour. Coming immediately after the event being recognised, rather than appearing in due course in the New Year’s or Birthday Honours lists, this recognition was reminiscent of accolades previously bestowed upon Francis Drake and Francis Chichester when reaching home shores after their respective circumnavigations in 1580 and 1967. MacArthur was also granted the rank of Honorary Lieutenant Commander, Royal Naval Reserve on the same day.

In recognition of her achievement she was appointed a Knight (Chevalier) of the French Legion of Honour by President Nicolas Sarkozy in March 2008. She is a fluent French speaker.

Following her retirement from professional sailing on 2 September 2010, MacArthur announced the launch of the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, a charity with the stated aim of inspiring a generation to re-think, re-design & build a positive future through the framework of a circular economy.

 

A circular economy is a regenerative system in which resource input and waste, emission, and energy leakage are minimised by slowing, closing, and narrowing energy and material loops. This can be achieved through long-lasting design, maintenance, repair, reuse, remanufacturing, refurbishing, and closed recycling loops. This is in contrast to a linear economy which is a ‘take, make, dispose’ model of production

The Ellen MacArthur Foundation is a British registered charity.

The foundation was founded on 23 June 2009 and was publicly launched on 2 September 2010 by Dame Ellen MacArthur at the National Science Museum. The Foundation was launched with the support of a group of ‘Founding Partners’, B&Q, BT, Cisco, National Grid and Renault.The charity was inspired by MacArthur’s sailing experiences and she put £500,000 of her own money into the project. £6 million was also raised by the five founding partners.

On 17 May 2017, the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, in conjunction with the Prince of Wales’ International Sustainability Unit, launched a $2 million prize fund for innovations in the management of waste plastics.

Other charity work includes the Ellen MacArthur Trust set up in 2003 and now the Ellen MacArthur Cancer Trust. This charity takes young people, aged between 8 and 24 inclusive, sailing to help them regain their confidence on their way to recovery from cancer, leukaemia and other serious illnesses.

In 2008 MacArthur joined forces with other sports celebrities to launch an appeal to raise £4 million for the Rainbows children’s hospice. The aim is to give terminally ill young people their own customised sleeping unit to enable children in separate age groups to have their families stay with them.

Contributed by Penny

Ivy Benson- WW2 Bandleader

When we recall the popular music of WW2 we might think of Dame Vera Lynn, the Andrews sisters or the Glen Miller band, few will recall Ivy Benson and her All Girl Band . Ivy Benson was born in Holbeck, Leeds in 1913. Her father was the musician Digger Benson and Ivy was taught piano from the age of 5. She was good enough to appear on children’s hour on BBC radio. She was also an accomplished organist, clarinettist and alto saxophonist. She won a scholarship to Leeds College of Art but like many women of her time worked in a factory doing tailoring for Montagu Burton. She played dances and socials with various bands in her spare time. She moved to London in the late 1930s and formed her own band

During the years of World War II, Benson fronted bands varying in size from 12 to 23-piece, sometimes augmented by strings. She recruited most of her brass sections with the aid of cornetist and conductor Harry Mortimer with many of her players coming from northern towns with strong traditions of brass band music. With many of the established male band personnel involved in the war, there was plenty of work available, and Benson played prestige ballrooms and theatres throughout Britain, including a 22-week stint at the London Palladium, on the bill with top acts such as comedians Max Miller and Jimmy James. In 1943 the band was appointed the BBC Resident Dance Band, a move that provoked expressions of fury and outrage from several band leaders, notably Billy Ternent. She was refused membership of the bandleader’s association, received little support from the musician’s union and even had her sheet music sabotaged by librettists working for the BBC.

The Ivy Benson band was very popular with listeners. The BBC received 300 letters a week from troops stationed overseas. They were flown to Berlin to play in a concert to celebrate the end of war in Europe in 1945 at the special request of Field Marshall Montgomery.

With the influx of American GIs into Britain, the turnover in personnel was frequent. Benson could lose a complete section overnight when her girls left to get married. Over 250 of them are said to have been recruited during the band’s 40-year life. Some joined when they were only 15 years old, and were musically trained by Ivy Benson. A career in Ivy Benson’s band gave a young woman an income of her own, glamour, excitement and an opportunity to travel when for many the alternative was a factory job. In 1946, Benson and her Ladies Dance Orchestra were booked for the first post-war broadcasts on BBC Television, but had to pull out after the massive Stoll Theatres Group, fearful of the new medium, threatened to cancel her contracts. She took the band to Berlin on its first overseas tour, with ENSA, shortly after the Allied Forces had liberated the city. One of the high spots was a concert with Joséphine Baker in Bavaria, and, in 1960, Benson was playing the Lido, in Hamburg, when the young Beatles were across the road at the Indra Club.

Benson’s band survived the radical changes in popular music that took place from the 50s onwards, adapting its style, while also leaning firmly on the nostalgic sounds of the war years. When playing her summer seasons to open-air audiences of 6000 on the Isle of Man, Benson would add a sprinkling of light classics and show tunes.However, the best of times were long gone. Most of the variety theatres were closed, and the dance halls had become discotheques. During its last years, the band played mostly for private functions, and with a touch of class, its final gig was at the Savoy Hotel in London in 1982. Benson continued to perform in summer seasons for a while before retiring to Clacton-on-Sea in Essex, where she was active for the charity Age Concern. She had confounded the critics in the band business who said that her girls ‘couldn’t sound as good as a man’s band’, and outlasted most of them. As an alto saxophonist, she could have held down a place in any band of her era.

In 2011 Leeds Civic Society put up a blue plaque to Ivy Benson in Cemetery Rd, Holbeck , Leeds but a musician should be remembered by their music. There are far too many statues cluttering the streets. So, play her music, share her performances with your friends on You tube ask why she has been left out of so many anthologies of the big band era and encourage you granddaughter to pick up a trombone and play.

 

URL:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1XFI6SXT-0

 

Dilys contribution

 

 

 

Margaret Roper (nee More)

Margaret Roper was a woman of the 16th century with very strong City connections. She was born in 1505 in a house called The Barge in Bucklersbury, very close to where the Mansion House now stands, and lived there with her family until the age of 19.

The clue to her identity is her maiden name: More. She was the daughter of Sir Thomas More, his eldest and favourite daughter – his ‘Dearest Meg’. But she was far more than just Thomas More’s daughter: she was a writer, a translator and one of the most scholarly women in England.

Thomas and his wife Jane had three further children, two girls and a boy, and also adopted the daughter of Margaret’s wet nurse after she died. Jane herself died in 1511 when Margaret was only six years old and Thomas remarried soon afterwards to a widow named Alice, who added her own daughter to the family.

Thomas More was unusual for the time in being a strong believer in education for everyone, including women, and Margaret learnt to read from the age of three. Thomas began by teaching all of the children himself, but he soon became very busy in the service of the King so he hired a full-time tutor, William Gonnell, who was a friend of Erasmus. The children were given a humanist education covering Latin, Greek, history, philosophy and rhetoric, as well as an introduction to astronomy, geometry and arithmetic.

Margaret proved to be an exceptional student. All the children were encouraged to write every day to their father in Latin, and Margaret was particularly good at this. She kept her father updated with family news when he was away, and she also wrote poetry and studied the writings of Erasmus among others.

Despite all her accomplishments, though, Margaret was still expected to marry, and in 1521, aged 16, she married William Roper, who moved into The Barge with the More family. Their first child was born two years later, and then in 1524 Thomas More decided to move the whole household to a new manor house down the river in Chelsea.

All the while Margaret continued her studies and that same year, 1524, she completed a translation of a work by Erasmus, meditations on the Lord’s Prayer. This was published as having been “turned into English by a young, virtuous and well-learned gentlewoman of xix years of age”. Margaret remained anonymous because the general attitude – which was shared by her father – was that women should be modest and not seek fame; More also seems to have worried that women showing off their intelligence would harm public acceptance of the idea of educating women. Nevertheless, Margaret’s translation into English was the first ever published by a non-royal woman.

Along with having five children, Margaret continued to write and translate prolifically, though only some letters and her first publication have survived. She deserves a memorial for this alone, but she was also remarkable for her devotion to her father and her courage.

In 1534, Thomas More was imprisoned in the Tower of London for refusing to take the oath making Henry VIII head of the Church of England. Margaret became his main channel of communication, being allowed to visit him whenever she wished and smuggling his letters out of the Tower. The following July, when Thomas was being escorted back to the Tower after his trial, Margaret pushed through the soldiers at Tower Wharf to embrace her father, the last time she saw him alive. After his execution, his head was stuck on a pike and displayed on London Bridge. A month later, Margaret bribed the executioner not to throw the head into the river but to give it to her. Margaret died in 1544, aged only 39, and she was buried with her father’s skull alongside her.

Carol

above image of Margaret from Pinterest

Select Dictionary of Dates

1832 First Parliamentary Reform Bill. First women’s suffrage petition presented to the House of Commons by Henry ‘Orator Hunt.
1866 Provisional Petition and Enfranchisement of Women Committees formed in London.
1867 Second Reform Bill. John Steward Mill presented women’s petition to Parliament. Manchester National Society for women’s Suffrage founded, Lydia Becker, its driving force.   Followed by London National Society which included Millicent Garrett Fawcett.
1881 Women enfranchised on the Isle of Man.
1884 Third Reform Bill. Amendment to include women rejected.
1897 Twenty London and provincial societies amalgamated into the NUWSS.   Millicent Garrett Fawcett elected President, Between 1866 and 1902 some dozen petitions, resolutions and bills for women’s suffrage were presented to the House of Commons. Few proceeded beyond a second reading. Most fell by the wayside.
1903 WSPU founded in Manchester by Emmeline Pankhurst.
1905 Onset of militancy. Christabel Pankhurst and Annie Kenney arrested and imprisoned in Manchester. Slogans ‘Votes for Women’ and ‘Deeds Not Words’
1906 Liberals led by Sir Henry Campbell-Bannerman returned to power in landslide victory. WSPU moved its HQ to London. Arrests and imprisonments in the capital.
1907 Split in the WSPU. B reakaway group formed WFL. Non-violent militancy spread. Men’s League for Women’s Suffrage founded.
1908 Campbell-Bannerman resigned. H.H. Asquith became Prime Minister.
1909 Women’s frustration mounted. First hunger strike followed by forcible feeding. The National League for Opposing Women’s Suffrage formed.   Battles over Lloyd George’s Budget.   Parliament dissolved.
1910 Liberals returned to power with greatly reduced majority. Conciliation Committee to promote agreed Suffrage Bill. Militancy suspended – ‘The Truce’. Conciliation Bill passed its second reading. Further Liberal battles with House of Lords. Second dissolution of Parliament. Women’s march on House of Commons resulted in ‘Black Friday’.
1911 Liberals re-elected. Truce reintroduced. Another Conciliation Bill passed its second reading with a large majority. Optimism high. November, the Bill ‘torpedoed’.
1912 Mass window-smashing. Labour Party came out in favour of women’s suffrage. NUWSS/Labour alliance. Christabel Pankhurst fled to Paris. Major WSPU split. Reform Bill capable of amendment to include women in the pipeline.
1913 January: ruling by the Speaker of the House of Commons scuppered the Reform Bill. Widespread fury. Militant bomb and arson campaigns. Prisoner’s Temporary Discharge for Ill-Health Bill (the ‘Cat-and-Mouse’ Act) introduced. Emily Wilding Davison died from injuries received on Derby Day.
1914 Continuing violence. 4 August war declared. Suffragette prisoners released.
1915 Women’s Peace Congress in neutral Holland caused NUWSS split. Pacifists resigned.
1916 Reform of electoral register to include men serving in armed forces. Speaker’s Conference arranged to discuss inclusion of women. December – Lloyd George Prime Minister.
1917 House of Commons passed Clause IV of the Representation of the People Bill which entitled women aged 30 and over with household qualifications to vote.
1918 January: House of Lords passed the Bill. February: received Royal Assent. November: Armistice ended the Great War. December: ‘Coupon Election’. 16 women candidates. Only Constance Markievicz elected, as Sinn Fein candidate for South Dublin.
1919 NUWSS renamed NUSEC
1922-27 Continuing campaign to equalise the franchise.
1928 Fifth Reform Bill, Women entitled to vote on the same terms as men. Emmeline Pankhurst died.
1929 General Election. 14 women MPs. Margaret Bondfield first woman Cabinet Minister. Millicent Garrett Fawcett died.

Countries Enfranchised before the UK

  • 1869    First Women in the world enfranchised in the state of Wyoming. Over the next decades other sparsely populated western US States granted women the vote.
  • 1893    New Zealand the first country to do so.
  • 1902    The Commonwealth of Australia (i.e.women were entitled to vote for their Government but not yet in all the individual states.  Victoria was the last in 1908).
  • 1906    Finland
  • 1908    Norway limited female suffrage.
  • 1913     Norwegian women fully enfranchised.
  • 1915    Denmark and Iceland.
  • 1917    Newly formed USSR.
  • 1918    Canada (as in the USA some provinces had already enfranchised their women).

Suffragettes The Fight for Votes for Women …edited by Joyce Marlow

Military Hospital, Endell Street

At the outbreak of the First World War, many women wanted to be involved in the war. Most were told to return home and perform domestic duties. Flora Murray and Louisa Garrett Anderson, having a background in social organisations as well as being qualified doctors, felt that they needed to help in a more constructive way. The concept of the Women’s Hospital Corps was created and instituted in 1914. Previously met with hostility by officials, the women decided to bypass the British government by going directly to the French Embassy with their offer to run a military hospital in France. Their idea was accepted and they were given a newly built Hotel Claridge in Paris. They successfully ran two military hospitals in France until January 1915 when casualties began to be evacuated to England instead of being treated in France. The War Office then invited the women to return to England and Endell Street Military Hospital opened in May, 1915. It was entirely staffed by women and was under the authority of the War Office so the women doctors received the pay and benefits of military grades which relieved them of the necessity to raise funds for the hospital.

The hospital was in the former St Giles workhouse in Endell Street, Covent Garden but the building has since been demolished. The oldest part of the building dated from 1727 but the children’s home behind the main buildings was modern and well built. There was a complete makeover. Initially there were 520 beds and a full complement of female staff including around 15 doctors, 36 nurses, 80 orderlies plus clerks, cooks, cleanse, a Quartermaster, Storekeepers, a Transport Officer and a Steward. There was also a detachment of men from the Royal Army Medical Corps but most of them were unfit for active service so not much help. Volunteers acted as librarians, entertainment officers, gardeners and ward visitors.

The hospital was a professionally run army hospital but the women had a fairly free rein and tried to show concern for the psychological welfare of the patients as well as their physical needs. The week the hospital opened Anderson said: “After all, if you have found out the way to treat children – what toys they like, what they like for tea, and what frightens them when going to an operation – you have gone a great way to find out how to run a military hospital. My hospital when complete will have 550 beds – 550 large babies requiring a great deal of care, a great deal of understanding and a certain amount of treatment.” The wards were named after female saints; flowers were in every room; brightly coloured blankets were used; standard lamps were donated. There was also a large library and a stage where many famous actors and actresses performed each year. There were sports days which featured crawling and cigarette races for the less able – not sure how they worked! There were boxing matches and needlework classes.

It was very close to the main railway stations so when ambulance trains arrived the hospital received convoys of casualties and often late at night. Many needed immediate operations and it was not unusual for the surgeons to perform over 20 operations a day. The surgeons were almost all inexperienced in the kind of work they now had to perform and none had treated male patients.   Anderson had been an assistant surgeon for outpatients at the New Hospital for Women before the war but most of those operations were gynaecological and she is unlikely to have been involved in major trauma surgery. During the four and a half years that the hospital was open, over 26,000 patients were treated and over 7,000 surgical operations were performed. In addition to their regular workload, some of the staff carried out clinical research and seven of their papers were published in The Lancet.

Murray and Anderson’s primary aim was to prove that women could do as professional job as their male colleagues. Murray reminded the staff that: “You not only have got to do a good job, you have got to do a superior job. What would be accepted from a man will not be accepted from a woman. You’ve got to do better.” Of course, this was pure ‘suffrage-speak’. There is some disagreement amongst researchers as to how much suffrage propaganda was promoted through the hospital. Murray claimed that they never attempted propaganda but according to other accounts from staff there at the time e.g. Vera Scantlebury, an Australian volunteer, she was ‘in the midst of very militant suffragettes’ and the subject at tea always got around again and again to the suffragettes and the Pankhursts.

In 1917 Murray and Anderson were awarded the CBE and later other Endell Street doctors were awarded either a CBE or an OBE. The hospital remained open till the end of 1919. However, in spite of its success which was acknowledged by many commentators who predicted radical changes in the status and prospects of women doctors as a result of their war work, very little actually changed after the war. For medical women their post-war career prospects were no better than they had been in 1914. This was largely due to obstructionism within the medical profession. While four or five of the women who served in the Women’s Hospital Corps were successful in the medical field, the rest worked in women’s hospitals, in the Colonies or married. None of the 37 doctors who served at Endell Street went into general surgery or medicine – the areas where they had the greatest expertise.

Penny

photo flickriver

 

 

 

Dutch Church Commemorative Window

The Commemorative window on the west wall shows the history of the Dutch Church in London. The window was designed by Max Nauta. It was a gift from the Protestant churches in the Netherlands to the first Dutch Protestant church in the world.

The lower and middle parts of the window represent the past and the present of the church while the pictures in the upper part are images of the vision from the book of Revelations.

King Edward VI is standing on the left in the lower part. In his left hand he holds the church he gave to the refugees in 1550. The group is welcomed by the civil authorities of the City of London after the sea crossing in small sailing ships. Above the image of King Edward is the church in flames as a reminder of the destruction in October 1940. The Phoenix rises from the flames as a symbol of the construction of the new church, shown in the far right panel. Princess Irene is on the right, holding the trowel she used to lay the foundation stone. Above Princess Irene are two female figures, symbolising the Netherlands and England; they fold their hands around the torch of freedom. The dove of peace hovers above. The scenes on both sides are united at the bottom by the coat of arms of England and the Netherlands and by the words underneath: Nos vinxit libertas (Freedom has joined us together). Below these words are the coats of arms of the twelve tribes of Israel.

Near the centre on the left is St Augustine, holding a begging bowl. Above his head is an anchor with a crown, symbol of hope. In the panel on the right is Johannes a Lasco, holding the Charter. Above him is pictured a heart in flames, symbol of love. These symbols are surrounded by angels.

At the top is a representation of the heavenly city and an arch with the words of the seal of the Dutch Church in London: Omnibus sperantibus in Eo (To all those that trust in Him).   The open hands in the top corners symbolise God.

Sourced : Church booklet devised by Margreet de Pijper and Joost Roselaers (2015)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Johannes a Lasco – wiki

 

p.s.

Below this window is a memorial stone set in the floor – the English translation of the inscription is: ‘ To the memory of those who found their last resting place in Austin Friars. Their ashes were kept in this church’

 

 

French Protestant Church in London

The French Protestant Church in London

In 1550 Edward VI signed a charter granting freedom of worship to Protestants, and a ‘Strangers’ Church’ was founded in the nave of the church of Austin Friars, the Augustinian friary having been dissolved in 1538. Many Protestant refugees soon arrived from the continent, mainly from the Netherlands, France and Wallonia, as well as some Italian and Spanish speakers. A number of theologians were also invited to come to England from the continent, among them Jan Laski alias John a Lasco, a Polish reformer and preacher, who was appointed superintendent of the Strangers’ Church. However, the mix of different languages encouraged the French-speaking community to find their own place of worship and after a few months they moved into the chapel of the former Hospital of St Anthony on Threadneedle Street.

The Hospital had been founded in the 13th century by the Brothers of St Anthony from Vienne in France, as a charitable house for the care of 12 poor men. It was mostly funded by donations, along with one unusual source of income in the form of ‘St Anthony’s pigs’. If a pig was deemed unsuitable to be sold at the livestock market, it would have a bell tied around its neck and would be released on to the City streets to scavenge for food – the bell meant people knew it was a protected pig and would leave it alone or would even feed it as a virtuous deed. Once the pig was nicely fattened up it would be reclaimed by the Hospital and sold or slaughtered. At the time of the Dissolution of the Monasteries, the Hospital was cleared, the almsmen were paid to leave and their houses were rented out, with the chapel being leased to the French Protestants.

The French church was closed temporarily in the reign of Mary I, but reopened in 1560 with the Bishop of London appointed as superintendent and a pastor sent to London from Geneva by Calvin himself. Among the early congregation at Threadneedle Street were members of the Houblon family, who came from Lille in 1560. One of their descendants was John Houblon, the first governor of the Bank of England in 1694, who became an elder of the church. He lived in a big house just off Threadneedle Street on the site later occupied by the Bank itself.

The church remained on the Threadneedle Street site for nearly 300 years, though the original 13th-century building burned down in the Great Fire in 1666. Not being a parish church, replacing it didn’t fall within the remit of Sir Christopher Wren’s office, so the Huguenots had to take care of the rebuilding themselves. This they did very speedily, the new church being completed by 1669.

Following the revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685, thousands more Huguenots came to England and many more churches were founded – by 1700 there were 24 in London alone, especially in the Spitalfields and Soho areas. Another important one was the Savoy church, refounded under Charles II, but only on condition that it used a French translation of the Anglican liturgy. Throughout, though,Threadneedle Street was considered to be the mother church of French Protestantism in England.

In the 19th century the French Protestants were obliged to move twice. In 1840 the Threadneedle Street church was demolished to make way for road widening and the rebuilding of the Royal Exchange. Two years later they moved into a new church on the west side of St Martin’s le Grand. Unfortunately, in 1888 this too was demolished to allow for a major extension of the General Post Office. By now the largest French community was in Soho, so the compensation money was used to buy a site and build a new church. The site was in Soho Square and the new church was designed by the celebrated Aston Webb, whose other works include the facade of Buckingham Palace, the main building of the V&A and Admiralty Arch. The new church in Soho Square was opened in 1893 and is still there today. In 1950 a sculpture, by John David Prangnell, was placed over the entrance, depicting the departure of the Huguenots, their arrival in England and the granting of the royal charter by Edward VI, exactly 400 years earlier.

Also marking the anniversary, the building has recently had its listing raised to Grade II* from Grade II. However, it is in need of major repairs and renovations and a project has been launched to raise £1.8million to pay for the work.

French Protestant Church website: http://www.egliseprotestantelondres.org.uk/en/

Historic England listing: https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1236283

Photos of Soho Square at: http://www.flickr.com/groups/cityoflondonhistory

Submitted by Carol Stanley

 

John Stow

John Stow (also Stowe; 1524/25 – 5 April 1605) was an English historian and antiquarian, best known for his Survey of London (1598; second edition 1603).

John Stow was born in about 1525 in the parish of St Michael Cornhill. He was the eldest of 7 children. His father, Thomas Stow, as indeed was his grandfather, was a tallow chandler. Stow did not take up his father’s trade and instead became an apprentice, and in 1547 a freeman, of the Merchant Taylor’s Company, by which stage he had set up business in premises close to Aldgate Well. He retired in 1579.

In about 1560 he started upon his major work, the Survey of London. His antiquarian interests attracted suspicion from the ecclesiastical authorities as a person “with many dangerous and superstitious books in his possession”, and in February 1569 his house was searched. An inventory was made of all the books at his home, especially those “in defence of papistry”, but he was able to satisfy his interrogators as to the soundness of his Protestantism. A second attempt to incriminate him was made in 1570 also without success.

In about 1570 he moved to the parish of St Andrew Undershaft where he lived in comfortable surroundings until his death in 1605. There was a family dispute with his younger brother over the terms of their mother’s will as she had favoured the brother rather than her eldest son.

Stow made keen acquaintance of the leading antiquarians of his time, including William Camden, before in 1561 producing his first work about Chaucer. This was followed by other books that were re-printed and the British Library still holds copies of these works. In 1580, Stow published another book about the British Isles and this was also reprinted a few times.

Under Archbishop Mathew Parker’s patronage, Stow was persuaded to produce a number of books including ones about Matthew Paris and Thomas Walsingham. In another publication “Chronicle of England 1590” Stow writes: “To The Honorable Sir John Hart, Lord Mayor. The Chronicle written before that nothing is perfect the first time, and that it is incident to mankinde to erre and slip sometimes, but the point of fanta[s]tical fooles to preserve and continue in their errors.”

At the request of Archbishop Parker he compiled a “farre larger volume”, a history of Britain, but circumstances were unfavourable to its publication and the manuscript was lost. Stow was a member of the Society of Antiquities and the only one not to be a gentlemen.

The work for which Stow is best known is his Survey of London (original spelling: A Survay of London), published in 1598, which is of unique value for its detailed account of the buildings, social conditions and customs of London in the time of Queen Elizabeth. He published a second revised edition in 1603. Following his death, a third edition, with additions by Anthony Munday appeared in 1618; and three more editions have followed. It is claimed that this book has never been out of print.

A critical edition, based on that of 1603 and edited in two volumes by C.L. Kingsford, was published in 1908, and republished with additional notes in 1927. This remains the standard scholarly edition. A more popular single-volume edition was published in Everyman’s Library, with an introduction by H.B.Wheatley, in 1912 (revised edition 1956), and has been frequently reprinted. One point of interest is that Stow never mentioned theatres or Shakespeare!

Stow also travelled everywhere on foot. He is regarded as the first historian to make use of public records. He was committed to accuracy and had a long running dispute on such matters with a fellow writer Richard Grafton over some years.

Stow’s literary efforts did not prove very remunerative, but he accepted his relative poverty with cheerful spirit. From 1579 he was in receipt of a pension of £4 per annum from the Merchant Taylors’ Company; and in 1590 he petitioned the Court of Alderman for admission to the Freedom of the City of London, in order to reduce his expenses. In about the 1590s, William Camden commissioned Stow to transcribe six autograph notebooks of John Leland in exchange for a life annuity of £8: this was probably (in part) a charitable gesture towards an old but impoverished friend. In March 1604 King James 1 authorised Stow and his associates to collect “amongst our loving subjects their voluntary contributions and ‘kind gratuities'”, and himself began “the largesse for the example of others”. Whilst such royal approval was welcome it reaped dividend too slowly for Stow to enjoy any substantial benefit during his lifetime.

Stow died on 5 April 1605, and was buried in the St Andrew Undershaft. Stow’s widow, with whom he had three daughters, commissioned a mural monument to him in the church, made of Derbyshire marble and alabaster. The work has been tentatively attributed to Nicholas Johnson It includes an effigy of Stow, which was originally coloured: he is represented seated at a desk, writing in a book and flanked by other books. Above him is the motto, based on a phrase of Pliny the Younger, Aut scribenda agere, aut legenda scribere (“[Blessed is he to whom it is given] either to do things that are worth writing about, or to write things that are worth reading about”). The figure holds a real quill pen, in a manner similar to the effigy of Shakespeare at Stratford-upon-Avon: the latter monument has been attributed, on equally tentative grounds, to Nicholas Johnson’s brother, Gerard

In acknowledgement of Stow’s continuing reputation as the founding father of London history, the quill held by his effigy has been periodically renewed. The renewal is mentioned as taking place “annually” in 1828; and, although the custom may later have fallen into abeyance, it was revived following the monument’s restoration by the Merchant Taylor’s Company in 1905. In 1924, the ceremony was incorporated into a special church service, with an address by a London historian; and this service continued to be held annually every April until 1991, including the years of WW 11. No services could be held in 1992 or 1993 because of damage to the church caused by the Baltic Exchange bomb of 1992. The service was revived in 1994, but since 1996 has been held only once every three years. The services are jointly sponsored by the Merchant Taylors’ Company and the London @Middlesex Archaeological Society, and the quill supplied by the London & Middlesex Archaeological Society. The exchange of the quill is undertaken by the Lord Mayor or the Master Merchant Taylor alternately.

Steve Welsh

 

Also look at our flickr site for the quill ceremony

 

https://www.flickr.com/groups/cityoflondonhistory

The Quit Rents Ceremony

The Quit Rents Ceremony

4th October 2017

Royal Courts of Justice Court No. 4

Abstract

The Quit Rents Ceremony is the oldest legal ceremony in England apart from the coronation and dates back to the 13th century. The City of London pays rent to the Crown for two pieces of land, even though it no longer knows their exact locations! For the first piece of land, somewhere in Shropshire, the City pays two knives, one blunt and one sharp and for the second piece of land somewhere near The Strand, 6 giant horseshoes and 61 nails are handed over. But at least the rent has not been increased for centuries!

Proceedings – times are approximate

The bewigged clerks to the Queen’s Remembrancer were present in the court prior to the entry of the deputation from the City of London. The public gallery had reserved seats for pupils from various schools in the City or connected with it, e.g City of London School for Boys and Christ’s Hospital. Some may well have been seated downstairs

3 pm

Entrance of the deputation from the City of London that has come by boat to the Royal Courts of Justice – first a gentleman with a small mace, then 2 ‘footmen’ (dark pink/maroon suits with knickerbocker trousers and white stockings), the 2 Sheriffs in red robes, the Common Serjeant in full-bottomed wig (He is the second most senior permanent judge of the Central Criminal Court and also one of the High Officers of the City of London Corporation who must undertake certain civic obligations alongside his judicial duties) and two ‘secretaries’ in black gowns but no wigs. [If you know the correct names for these officers in inverted commas, please let me know]

 

3.10 pm

Entrance of the Queen’s Remembrancer in a black gown, a full-bottomed wig and tricorn She sits in front of and below the judges seats facing the deputation and the public, flanked by two clerks in black gowns and behind the table with the black and white chequered cloth. Barbara Fontaine is the current Remembrancer. She has been in the office since 2014 and is the very first female to take on the role.

3.15 pm

Entrance of the Lord Chief Justice who sits in the central seat of the five judges’ seats. He is Sir Ian Burnett who was made LCJ on 2nd October 2017. He states that this is his first Quit Rents Ceremony when he introduces himself and then spends 5 minutes reading a his speech on the history of the ceremony. He also speaks of the essay competition for 6th formers of schools. Their subject this year was ‘Judges have become too powerful. Discuss’. As the standard has been so high this year, he has also awarded two highly commended prizes in addition to the top three winners in the competition. Each prize winner, if present, goes up to collect his or her scroll and envelope and have their photo taken with the Lord Chief Justice.

After the presentation the Lord Chief Justice leaves and the proceedings are then conducted by the Queen’s Remembrancer.

3.30pm

The Queen’s Remembrancer reads a speech on the history of violent society and the use of public punishments as a deterrent. (At one stage she mentions there were 18 jails in the City of London(?).)

3.40pm

One of the secretaries reads out the two warrants.

3.45pm

The Common Serjeant introduces the two Sheriffs to the Remembrancer recounting in detail their curricula vitae, private lives and interests . He tries to introduce some humour into his speech with witticisms about their activities in the past and the present.

4.00pm

The Sheriffs come forward and the Remembrancer shows them their hand-written certificates with illuminated lettering on parchment together with the wax seal. They are invited to inspect them and the clerk on the left of the Remembrancer explains and points things out to them. When they have finished perusing the text, the Sheriffs bow to the Remembrancer and return to their seats.

4.05pm

The clerk on the right of the Remembrancer requests the rents. These are paid by one of the secretaries. First of all he shows the two knives, one blunt and one sharp, in lieu of rent for the land in Shropshire. These have to be tested against a hazel twig. The blunt knife does not break the branch but makes a mark representing payment. The sharp knife splits the twig in two, one piece for each party as a receipt. In actual fact, the knife does not split the twig as the secretary snaps it as the clerk starts to attempt to cut through it! The Remembrancer remarks ‘Good service’. The knives are then laid on a cushion in front the Remembrancer.

The second rent involves the payment of six horseshoes for the use of a forge somewhere near The Strand. Five of these were already on the chequered tablecloth and the secretary presented the sixth he has brought with him. [It is possible six horseshoes were already there and he just picked one of them up] He then produces a bag containing the nails and places 60 on the table. There is then some pantomime as the secretary tries to find the 61st nail from one of the pockets in his suit and waistcoat. When he finds it and adds it to the rest, the Remembrancer says, ‘Good number’ and with that the formal part of the ceremony is finished. [The same shoes and nails are used each year. After the ceremony the shoes and nails are then loaned back to the City of London for the next year!]

4.10pm

The guest speaker reads a lecture on white collar crime from the early 19th century to the present day.

4.25pm

The Queen’s Remembrancer thanks the speaker and then brought the proceedings to a close. She says there is some function or other somewhere for the invited. She then calls the tipstaff to the front of the court who leads the Remembrancer out of the court followed by the City delegation.

Conclusion

The view from the public gallery is not particularly good unless you are in the front row and are tall enough to peer over on to the court. From the public gallery you can see that the court room could do with some TLC; it’s so dusty, some of the light bulbs in the chandeliers need changing, and the woodwork could be smartened up It is intimidating and looks so Dickensian and I could visual Jarndyce versus Jarndyce during several periods when the mind wandered during the proceedings. The Lord Chief Justice’s introduction was succinct when he summarised the history of the ceremony. A lengthier paper vesion was on every seat for the general public to read and take away. The speech of the Queen’s Remembrancer went on a bit, the Common Serjeant’s introduction of the Sheriffs seemed to go on without end and the second speech by a female member of the legal profession just seemed an unnecessary addition to the event. A number of visitors did disappear from the public gallery as the last speech was about to begin but some of us were determined to sit it out to the bitter end!

submitted by Howard

 

New extracts from Samuel Pepys’s Diary

Have recently been discovered by the Museum of London. These extracts cover just one day in the year after the Great Fire of London (1666) when the Barbican Area, as was, had been devastated and a new look concrete housing development had been speedily erected to house the displaced families.

Tueʃday 11th June 1667

I went with my friend the Duke of York to viʃit a new ale houʃe called the Tueʃday Club. An odd tavern that apparently is only open for two hours on a Tueʃday afternoon. It ʃounded promiʃing as these ale houʃes that open at ʃuch times are for rogues who want ʃomewhere to dock between their lunchtime beakers and their dinner time flagons. The liquor must be ʃtrong at the Tueʃday Club, if it is open only once a week. The Hell Fire club needs to look to its laurels, methinks.

We walked in and the other cuʃtomers were ʃitting around in a circle, a bit like the early pilgrims uʃed to do, before they departed to the world’s end, God reʃt their poor ʃouls.

‘A cup of tea?’ the ʃerving wench aʃked.

‘Anything ʃtronger?’ I pleaded.

‘Well we could put two tea bags in, but you will have to go eaʃy on the Hob Nobs as we only charge a groat.’ ʃhe pointed diʃcreetly to the honeʃty box.

The Duke of York ʃaid a tea would do handʃomely well, as he had been in his cups the night before with his brother…the King.

Eyebrows were raiʃed at the mention of the Monarch and the converʃation ʃoon turned to the Royal Court and the Popiʃh plots. We treaded a little carefully on the ʃubject of Rexit and the demiʃe of Charles I. However this topic was nothing compared to the hubbub when the Club members ʃtarted talking about their medical problems. One member had late-onʃet Type 2 Pox which drew gaʃps, but greater was the reaction when I ʃaid that I had a kidney ʃtone removed, with nothing to dull the pain other than a glaʃs of port. That got their attention and they were verily all agog (even the varlet who was ʃurreptitiouʃly attacking the honeʃty box with a hammer) as I deʃcribed the operation, although two did faint.

One wench aʃked me to join her in the back room for a ʃpot of waʃhing-up. I am too old a dog not to recognize what the wench intended and repaired thither ʃpeedily, and left the Duke of York to his tea and his Jammy Dodger. Although from the look of it, it did not as much dodge jam, but verily embrace it. The Club members ʃeemed pleaʃed with the Duke and ʃaid that the beʃt they had achieved ʃo far, in terms of VIPs, was a Lord Mayor and a ʃmattering of aldermen – the rogues.

The waʃhing-up wench ʃaid that ʃhe lived in Cromwell Turret – four full ʃtoreys including the baʃement, if I wanted to drop by anytime (although not Tueʃday afternoons obviouʃly).

‘Cromwell?… Cromwell? You have named your reʃidence after him? Madam we dug him up and hanged him uʃing chains. ʃurely naming a reʃidence after an anti-royaliʃt is High Treaʃon.’

‘Weren’t you a Parliamentarian – not ʃo long ago?’, ʃhe ripoʃted.

M’yes … but I changed ʃides when I diʃcovered that Drinking and Wenching were on the Barred Roʃter. His Royal Highneʃs, Charles II, likes his revels, verily … and not ʃuft on Tueʃdays.

However, it muʃt be ʃaid that my Cromwellian connections are a ʃlightly ʃore point, ʃo I was glad when another Club member popped in at that moment, mentioning that that he lived in Andrewes Lodgings.

Yet again, I was aghaʃt. ‘Named after Launcelot Andrewes?’ I exclaimed. ‘The vicar of ʃaint Giles? I am afraid, ʃir, that he neglected his duties and conveniently repaired to one of his country pariʃhes when the Great Pox was attacking London. Not that he cauʃed the pox, I will own. Indeed I am sure it was the French who brought this Pox upon us and, as for the Great Fire, well I think the French again have a lot of queʃtions to answer. If only they could ʃpeak Engliʃh we could aʃk them – the rogues.’

I popped back into the main room and noted that ʃir Peter Lely, the famous portrait painter – who has a Barbican ʃtudio apparently – had been ʃummoned to knock up a few ʃelfies with the Club members and the Duke. I know that the Duke does not like to ʃit ʃtill for too long – and who would if you have had the New Model Army chaʃing you around England for moʃt of your early years? ʃo I and the Duke bade them farewell and departed for the ‘Centre for the Revels’ at the heart of this strange concrete world.

I was mightily diʃappointed that the ale houʃe there is called Bonfire, when the memory of the Great Fire of London is ʃo raw. A fine Lake nearby, but there were no handy fire buckets. Are the leʃʃons of hiʃtory never to be learnt? Although looking at the concrete it might well withʃtand a ʃtrong blast. The previous buildings had thatched roofs. Thatch, like a fair maid, is pretty but there are always conʃequences.

After a flagon or two we paʃʃed by the Barbican Art Gallery but I could make neither head nor tail of what I was looking at. They ʃaid it was an inʃtallation, which left me none the wiʃer. Where were the Velazquezes or the Titians? A Titian you can pick up on the Rialto for a few ʃovereigns if you can perʃuade the rogue to ʃpend a few lire on a canvas and not paint on walls and ceilings just becauʃe it is cheaper.

The Muʃic Hall looked fine with a delightful echoing acouʃtic – all the rage with the King’s players. I noted that Mr. Purcell’s music was programmed. It was a Crumhorn concerto and a ʃonata for two ʃackbuts. Not his ʃoft delicate works.

We decided to wend our way home, I eventually to my houʃe in ʃeething Lane, the Duke to Weʃtminʃter. I don’t think we will be back very ʃoon.

On the way back, whilʃt dodging the chamber pots, we heard the local urchins playing ‘ʃimple ʃimon’ and singing the catch ‘ʃhe ʃells ʃea fhells by the fea fhore’. Although why the wench in the ʃong would confider the ʃea ʃhore ʃuch an ideal ʃpot to ʃell ʃhells when any varlet could ʃimply pick them up freely is beyond me.

ʃtill, that gave the Duke and me a topic to discuʃs while at our cups in a hoʃtelry or three on the way home.

And ʃo to bed.

 

submitted by Kevin Kiernan, Barbican resident

City Wall – Ramble 2

A ramble around the City wall, part 2

For the second part of our ramble around the route of the old City wall we picked up where we’d left off, at the site of the gate at Moorgate, marked by both a City Corporation blue plaque and Wall Walk plaque number 11. Not one of the original Roman gates, it was added in the Middle Ages, rebuilt as an imposing ceremonial entrance in the 17th century and demolished in 1761 to improve traffic flow.

From there we crossed over to London Wall (the street), then turned right and left into Fore Street. It used to be possible to walk through the garden of Salters’ Hall to look at a large piece of wall that shows Roman, medieval and later layers, as well as the ruins of the tower of the church of St Alphage, but all of this is currently in the middle of a giant building site. Eventually the re-landscaped gardens should be open to the public again, but we had to be content with a small glimpse of the ruined tower behind Salters’ Hall.

Around the corner in Wood Street we found Wall Walk plaque 13 marking the site of Cripplegate, originally the northern entrance of the Roman fort and rebuilt in the Middle Ages. There’s no trace of it now, so we moved on into the Barbican and round to the back of St Giles Cripplegate church. There, along with Wall Walk plaque 14, we viewed the remains of the medieval bastions and wall with the modern lake where the medieval ditch used to be. This section was where the Romans had simply thickened the wall of their fort, and we were able to follow where it turned the corner and went south thanks to Lesley who, as a Barbican resident, had a key to the gate to give us access. In the gardens of Barber-Surgeons’ Hall there’s another Wall Walk plaque and more remains of medieval wall and bastions. (For an overhead view of this section you can go inside the Museum of London and look down from their custom-made window in the Roman section.)

At the bottom of the slope past the last bastion is the entrance to the vast underground car park that runs almost the whole length of London Wall. Beside the entrance is plaque 18, which explains that excavations here in 1959, when the road above was being constructed, uncovered remains of the west gate of the Roman fort. The site is kept locked up, but the Museum offers regular visits. That’s not the only ancient ruin in the car park, though, because down among the cars and motorbikes is another sizeable chunk of Roman wall. However, going to view it meant a lengthy walk back along the line of London Wall, so we decided to leave that for another time. Instead, Lesley guided us around the lower level of the Museum, past the deliveries entrance where there’s a lift flanked incongruously by a pair of Egyptian statues!

From there we emerged up a ramp into Aldersgate Street and made our way round the corner and across the road to Noble Street. We were all familiar with the remains running alongside Plaisterers’ Hall, which include Roman foundations, medieval additions and a small square corner turret.

At that point the wall route turns west behind the church of St Anne & St Agnes. We couldn’t follow it exactly, but instead went via Gresham Street and up Aldersgate Street to see the City Corporation plaque and the final Wall Walk plaque that both mark the site of Aldersgate, gateway to the Great North Road (a.k.a. the A1). Crossing over, we walked through Postman’s Park, then across St Martin’s-le-Grand and through the gardens that represent the site of Christ Church Greyfriars and its burial ground.

Just along Newgate Street there’s a turning between the shops that leads into Minerva Walk and a small courtyard surrounded by the offices of Merrill Lynch. A plaque on the wall of the alley and another on a pillar in the courtyard both say that the remains of the Roman and medieval city wall are located beneath the site and that the position of the Roman wall is marked by textured paving. This paving is quite subtle and it took us a couple of minutes to figure out, but we spotted it at last and also realised that it led directly to the Merrill Lynch offices. I’d read that they have a chunk of wall down in their basement, but (unlike One America Square that we visited on the first part of our ramble) getting access involved security clearance so we weren’t able to go in. But we were excited to realise that, through the plate glass window, we could see what was clearly an ancient bastion (see Howard’s photo above).

That, though, would be our last glimpse of actual masonry. A City Corporation plaque marks the site of Newgate, but as you walk down Old Bailey there’s no chance of seeing the bits of wall that survive deep inside the Central Criminal Court. Also hidden from view is the piece that forms the lower part of the western wall of the church of St Martin Ludgate, which was revealed by archaeological excavations in the 1980s when the lower part of Old Bailey was being redeveloped. By the entrance to St Martin’s on Ludgate Hill is a City plaque marking the site of Ludgate. Unusually, St Martin’s lay inside the gate, whereas St Sepulchre and the three St Botolph churches were all outside their respective gates.

From Ludgate down to the river none of the wall survives. Its route was diverted in the 1270s to allow for the building of Blackfriars friary, with the Roman wall being demolished and a new section being constructed. Instead of going straight down to the Thames, it turned sharp west from Pilgrim Street, then ran alongside the Fleet River to its mouth. Our City wall ramble done, we made our way down through the alleyways to Queen Victoria Street and ended with a well-earned drink in the 19th-century Art Nouveau pub, the Blackfriar.

 

For more photos, go to www.flickr.com/groups/cityoflondonhistory.

 

City Wall – Ramble 1

A group of us recently enjoyed an interesting – if damp – ramble around half of the route of the old City wall, looking out for surviving plaques from the series put up in the 1980s to go with a Museum of London booklet called ‘The London Wall Walk’.

We began down the steps from Tower Hill station at the ruins of the medieval postern gate, designed for pedestrian access, and tried to figure out how it worked. It turns out that what’s left is the guard chamber alongside the gate. Back up the steps we admired the Roman and medieval building methods on display in the huge piece of wall, 35 feet high, in the garden opposite the lower station exit. In front of it is a replica statue of the Emperor Trajan, presented, as the inscription reads, ‘by the Tower Hill Improvement Trust at the request of the Rev P.B. Clayton’. Not quite accurate as he was Philip T.B. Clayton, known as Tubby Clayton (from his initials not his girth).

Walking on up Cooper’s Row we stopped by a blue plaque commemorating Tubby Clayton, founder of Toc H. Clayton was an army chaplain stationed in Belgium in World War One who was asked by his commanding officer to set up a soldiers’ rest home. This was given the name Talbot House, abbreviated in the signals spelling alphabet to Toc H. Back in England, Tubby Clayton set up Toc H as an interdenominational association that soon expanded with branches around the world. From 1922 to 1972 Clayton was vicar of All Hallows by the Tower, and in the 1930s he set up the Tower Hill Improvement Scheme to remove some unsightly local buildings, provide open public spaces and preserve the Roman wall. He was helped by Lord Wakefield, who is also remembered with a memorial on Cooper’s Row. Charles Wakefield (1859-1941) owned the Wakefield Oil Company which made lubricants for steam engines and, when they began appearing on the roads, motor cars. The lubricants contained castor oil, so he then changed the name of the company to Castrol – and made a fortune. He was a great philanthropist and very active in the City Corporation, serving as Lord Mayor in 1915-16.

Next we examined another huge piece of wall behind the Grange City Hotel on Cooper’s Row, then went round the corner to One America Square, a big 1980s office building, where I’d arranged for us to go down into the conference centre. There, as a backdrop to the business meetings, are two enormous chunks of wall – only a few feet high but tremendously thick and with characteristic courses of Roman tiles within the Kentish ragstone (see the photo).

From there we continued along Jewry Street, where we stopped by the sculpture of two monks representing the Crutched Friars who settled in London in the 1260s and stayed until the Dissolution in the 1530s. Just across the road is Roman Wall House – the name is a bit of a giveaway as there’s another piece of wall somewhere beneath it and (I think) beneath Emperor House on Vine Street which backs onto it. Unfortunately both buildings are empty and awaiting redevelopment so there’s no access.

Passing the Sir John Cass Foundation building (where I’ve previously seen a small piece of wall in the basement among the heating pipes), we came to the site of Aldgate, the Roman gateway to the road to Colchester. In the 14th century Geoffrey Chaucer lived in rooms over the gate while working as a customs official. The church of St Botolph, a patron saint of travellers, originally lay outside the gate.

There’s still a Wall Walk plaque on the wall of the Sir John Cass primary school, but there’s no sign of the next one, which used to be in a pedestrian subway under the road. The whole junction is currently being redeveloped, though a peep through the hoarding showed that the subway still exists.

Along Bevis Marks we stopped at the Wall Walk plaque on the wall of the Synagogue, then went on to Bishopsgate, where a bishop’s mitre on the wall above Boots marks the site of the old gate. This was rebuilt in the 15th century by the Hansa merchants in exchange for trading privileges at their headquarters, the Steelyard (where Cannon Street station now stands). Another church dedicated to St Botolph lies outside the gate site.

Further on, the church of All Hallows was built right up against the inside of the wall – the existing churchyard wall was built on top of the Roman and medieval stonework. We were able to go inside for a look around the church courtesy of the watchers from the Friends of the City Churches.

Our final stop was at the corner of Moorgate, where the site of the old gate – a medieval addition, not a Roman entry point – is marked by both a Wall Walk plaque and a blue plaque. The plan is to ramble along the remaining half of the route, down to Blackfriars, on another occasion.

Carol Stanley

 

Millennium Bridge

The notorious Wobbly Bridge, or the London Millennium Footbridge to give it its proper title, came out of a competition to design a new crossing over the Thames, organised in 1996 by Southwark Council in conjunction with the Financial Times and the Royal Institute of British Architects. The winning design was the ‘blade of light’ by sculptor Sir Anthony Caro, architects Foster and Partners and the engineering firm Arup.

It was the first new bridge over the Thames in London for more than 100 years – the first since Tower Bridge in fact. Usually it would have needed an Act of Parliament, but that was avoided by the Port of London granting a licence for the structure, with planning permission obtained from the City of London and the London Borough of Southwark. The bridge would be owned and maintained by the Bridge House Estates, a charitable trust overseen by the City Corporation, which was originally set up in 1282 to maintain the first stone London Bridge and which today is also responsible for the other City bridges – Tower Bridge, Blackfriars Bridge and Southwark Bridge.

Construction of the Millennium Bridge began in late 1998, carried out by by Monberg & Thorsen and Sir Robert McAlpine. The bridge has two river piers and is made of three sections. Overall it measures 325 metres (1,066 feet) long and the aluminium deck is 4 metres (13 feet) wide. It is a very shallow suspension bridge, with two Y-shaped armatures supporting eight wire cables that run along both sides of the deck, and steel transverse arms clamped on to the cables at 8-metre intervals to support the deck itself. The cables are never more than 2.3 metres above the deck so anyone crossing the bridge gets uninterrupted panoramic views and also the sight lines from the surrounding buildings are preserved.

The bridge was finally completed two months late and having gone £2.2million over its £16million budget. It was officially opened by the Queen on Saturday 10 June 2000.

Around 80,000 people crossed the bridge that day. I was one of them – and it soon became apparent that something wasn’t quite right. Yes, the bridge wobbled! It was a very disconcerting sensation, and as I got past halfway, going north towards St Paul’s, I had to grab onto the handrail several times. I’d taken some photos at the south end (including the one above), but it was quite an effort to stand still enough to take any near the north end.

With all the people flooding over the bridge that weekend, the wobble made the news headlines, and on the Monday the bridge was closed. The engineers conducted extensive research and eventually concluded that the problem was something called Synchronous Lateral Excitation. Basically, as people felt the bridge swaying and twisting slightly, they subconsciously altered their walk to match the lateral rhythm, which just made the motion worse.

There was no danger of the bridge falling down, but the engineers knew the wobble needed to be stopped. The solution they came up with was to fit two sorts of dampers underneath the bridge – and that did the trick. The bridge eventually reopened on 27 February 2002 and it has been wobble-free ever since.

Carol Stanley